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Your Boat Trailer
Your boat trailer is an important
part of your boating equipment. All too often, a
trailer does not receive the attention that it
demands and deserves. After selecting the
appropriate trailer for you boat and tow vehicle,
proper maintenance and continual care when hitching
and towing are necessary. If care and maintenance
are neglected, you may be endangering the safety of
your boat, your car, your family, yourself and
others.
Selecting the Proper Trailer
Two important needs should be
considered in determining the proper trailer for
your boat: the boat's needs and your needs. First,
the trailer should "fit the boat," allowing equal
distribution of the hull weight. The trailer should
be long enough to eliminate any overhang of the boat
transom but short enough to accommodate a propulsion
unit of the boat in its fully extended or "down"
position. The trailer should be designed to carry
the total weight of the hull, engine, equipment and
extra gear normally carried.
Second, a boat which will always be
hoisted in and out of the water does not need a
trailer as elaborate as the types of trailers used
for launching. Shallow sloping shores or unimproved
launch sites may call for a "tilting," "breakaway,"
or extending-tongue trailer. A trailer that meets
your boating needs makes launching and retrieving
easier and safer.
Hitching Up
Trailer hitches come in a variety of
shapes and sizes. Most boat trailers connect to a
ball hitch that is bolted or welded to the towing
vehicle. Clamp-on bumper hitches are not
recommended for heavy loads or continual towing.
The weight a loaded trailer places on the hitch of
the towing vehicle is called the tongue weight.
Special heavy-duty equalizing hitches are
recommended for trailer tongue weights of 250 pounds
or greater. Improper installation of heavy-duty
equalizing hitches on trailers equipped with surge
brakes can cause brakes to lock, (follow
instructions carefully). The trailer hitch itself
should match the size of the ball hitch. NEVER use
a ball hitch that is too small.
It is recommended that the coupling
hitch on the trailer have a lock or similar device
to prevent it from vibrating loose. Periodically
lubricate the hitch for longer wear and quieter
turns. The trailer must be equipped with a least
one, preferably two, safety chains strong enough to
control the trailer if the hitch should come loose
or break. The chains should be securely attached to
the towing vehicle at a place separate from the ball
and bracket. The chains should be long enough to
allow turning but not long enough to drag on the
ground.
Loading the Trailer
The weight of the boat, equipment,
and additional gear should never exceed the
manufacturer's rated weight capacity. Proper
distribution of the load is of vital importance. Too
much weight on the hitch will cause "tail dragging"
of the towing vehicle, impair steering and raise the
beam of your car's headlights into the eyes of
oncoming traffic. Too little, or negative, weight on
the hitch will cause the trailer to sway or
"fishtail." The solution to proper distribution of
the load is to adjust the wheel carriage either
forward or back. If the carriage cannot be
adjusted, relocate movable gear. If this fails to
correct the problem, consider another trailer of a
different design or consult a trailer specialist who
may recommend corrective measures.
Towing
Under most states laws, it is an
infraction to tow a vessel containing a passenger,
except when engaged in launching or retrieving the
vessel. Extra caution is necessary when towing any
trailer. The heavier the rig, the more time it
takes to accelerate, pass, and stop. A long rig
requires a larger turning radius. Curbs and
obstructions should be given wide clearance. Most
boats on trailers obstruct the rear view of the
driver. In this case, a rear-view mirror on each
side of the towing vehicle is required by law. The
trailer boater should be familiar with traffic and
highway laws relating to the towing of trailer.
Contact the local Highway Patrol in you state for
further information.
If you are unfamiliar with your
trailer or haven't towed before, spend some time
practicing in a place that is spacious and free of
traffic. Take a friend along and practice
accelerating, braking, turning, and backing.
Learning to back a trailer up can be confusing at
first. A helpful hint: while grasping the bottom
of the steering wheel, move your hand in the
direction you want the trailer to go. Place some
markers out for spacing and practice parking, and if
possible, simulate a passing situation so you get an
idea of the time and distance required. Test the
brakes before getting on the open road. Watch the
trailer in the rear-view mirror and listen for
unusual noises. After 5 to 10 miles of towing, stop
and check the trailer, hitch, chain, tires, lights,
wheel bearings and gear in the boat. On a
long-distance tow, repeat this inspection about ever
100 miles.
Launching and Retrieving
Launch facilities are often crowded
and busy. Occupying the ramp for preliminary
launching steps is a discourtesy to waiting
boaters. The following tips are offered to ensure
safe launching and retrieving. Before you leave home
make sure accessories (blower, bilge pump, lights)
are in good working condition. Prepare the boat for
launching in an adjacent parking area (or at the tip
of an uncrowded ramp). Remove all tie-down straps,
disconnect trailer wiring from towing vehicle. Keep
winch line connected until just entering the water.
This will prevent the boat from coming off the
trailer in the event of an emergency stop while
launching. Load safety equipment and gear into
boat. Check drain plugs.
Don't let the noise and confusion of
a busy ramp rush you. You will make fewer mistakes
if you proceed with a careful and deliberate launch.
Back the trailer to the left if possible. This will
allow better launching visibility. If you must leave
your vehicle on the ramp, set the parking brake,
block the wheels, and set the transmission in "park"
or first gear for manual transmissions. If the
launching facility has a floating dock you may wish
to secure a line at the bow and at the stern of the
boat and assign someone to stand on the dock while
you "float" the boat off the trailer. In retrieving
your boat, make sure the boat is properly placed on
the trailer. If the boat has an outboard engine, or
an inboard/outboard (I/O) unit, raise it before
placing the boat on the trailer. Pull the trailer
up steadily to prevent spinning the wheels. Never
allow a person to stand in line with the winch cable
when it is loaded or is taut. Before entering a
roadway, make sure lights are connected and working,
the tie-down straps or clamps are in place, and the
lower I/O unit or outboard is in its trailering
position. Double check your hitch and safety
chains. Remove or secure gear inside the boat to
prevent damage from shifting or to prevent
lightweight items from blowing out.
Lights
The majority of states law requires
a trailer to have two red taillights on the rear
that may be combined with the stop and turn
signals. Trailers over 80 inches wide require
clearance light and rear brake lights visible for
500 feet. A car towing a heavy trailer must have
its headlight beams adjusted to compensate for the
upward tilt. If the lights will be submerged,
waterproof light fixtures should be used. Water
promotes contact corrosion and may cause the lamp to
crack and short out the entire lighting system, so
it is a good idea to carry spare lamps. The wire
coupling to the towing should be high enough to stay
dry, or disconnected when the trailer is launched.
Never rely on the trailer hitch for electrical
ground connection. A four-pole connectors should be
used.
Wheels
Tires should be inflated to the
manufacturer's recommended pressure. Carry a spare
tire and wheel, and a jack that fits the boat
trailer. If the wheel bearing are submerged,
waterproof bearings and caps should be considered.
If water gets into the hub, lubricating grease will
wash away and the bearings will eventually burn out
or seize, causing damage and creating a safety
hazard. Waterproofed bearing should be inspected
prior to each boating season and periodically during
the season. Non-waterproofed bearings should be
checked more often. Carry a spare set of wheel
bearings, seals, and grease. Special care should be
given when traveling with small-diameter wheels on
unimproved roads. Trailers over 3,000 pounds gross
weight (combined weight of boat, trailer, and gear)
must have a braking system. If a trailer has
electric or other power brakes, the braking system
must be operated from the towing vehicle and the two
vehicles must be able to stop within 40 feet from 20
MPH.
Frame and Roller or Pads
Rust should not be allowed to
accumulate on the trailer frame and roller parts.
If rust forms, remove the rust and repaint with an
antirust paint. Some trailers offer galvanized
coating to prevent rust. Rollers should roll freely
and should not have cracks or flat spots. Pads
should not have cracks or flattened areas. Roller
and pads can be adjusted both up and down, and
forward and backward to provide the best support.
For most hulls, the vital support points are: Just
under the bow The line of the keel and the planking
on each side Where the bottom meets the side and
where interior weights are concentrated The transom
Towing Vehicles
Vehicles are limited in towing
capacity. They are designed to carry people and
small loads only. Towing heavy loads places extra
demands on the engine, transmission, brakes and
other systems. The essential for any vehicle used
for trailer towing are: Adequate power to merge with
traffic and climb with a load Heavy-duty engine
cooling system Properly running transmission,
possibly equipped with a transmission cooler Brakes
with premium lighting Heavy-duty springs or air
shocks to strengthen suspension Heavy-duty shock
absorbers Towing "packages" are available through
most automobile dealers and should be considered for
towing heavy boats. A towing package includes such
things as non-slip differential, heavy-duty cooling
system, heavy-duty flasher, oversize battery and
alternator, heavy-duty suspension, special wiring,
special rear-axle ratio, and larger ties and wheels.
Storage
If the boat is stored outside, the
drain plug should be removed and the trailer and
boat tilted slightly to allow any accumulation of
water to drain. If a boat cover is used, it should
be tailored for the boat. Water can "puddle" on an
improperly fitted cover. The weight of puddle water
can rip the cover or allow the cover to slip off,
funneling the water inside the boat. A top
drawstring can pull the cover high to prevent
puddling. A bottom drawstring with tie-downs and
weight placed along the bottom will keep the cover
from whipping in the wind during towing. Tires may
be covered during storage to eliminate sun damage
but covers should be removed during wet weather to
prevent damage from dampness.
Do's and Don'ts at the Ramp
At times boat ramps may be crowded.
Suppose every time you launched your boat, no one
was tied up at the dock, and each time you retrieved
your boat, the ramp was clear and you waited only
momentarily, if at all, for your turn. Enjoying this
situation isn't impossible. It just takes a little
application of the Golden Rule and some launch ramp
smarts when accesses are crowded. Here are six ideas
you can use to make launching and retrieving
tolerable for everyone.
Get to know your favorite boat ramps so you can plan
your launching and retrieving for maximum
efficiency. Boaters tie up boat ramps because they
don't realize that many access sites have specially
built areas for launch preparation and for tie-down
after retrieval. These places are called rigging and
derigging areas. If we used these places, more
boaters could launch and retrieve, and a long line
at the ramp itself could be shortened.
Before you launch your boat at an
unfamiliar access, look the place over and decide
how you're going to launch and retrieve for maximum
speed and safety. Is there a dock at which you can
get your gear ready immediately after launching and
where you can secure your equipment before
retrieving out of the way of those who are launching
and retrieving? Will the wind or current make
maneuvering your rig for launching and retrieving
difficult? If you launch on a river, will a tide
change make you alter your launching and retrieval
scheme?
If a boat ramp site doesn't have rigging and
derigging areas, prepare for launching in a parking
space. As soon as you retrieve your boat and get it
on the trailer, attach the bow hook and make your
way slowly to the parking area. There, away from
others trying to launch and retrieve their boats,
work with your equipment and get ready to leave.
Remember that the ramp itself is only for launching
and retrieving, not for preparing your boat and
gear.
Before you call it a day and return to the ramp to
retrieve your boat, put your tackle away, prepare
mooring lines and get everything ready that's coming
out of the boat for storage in your tow vehicle.
Don't perform these tasks on the ramp. You won't tie
up the ramp this way, and you'll get home faster. In
addition, when you launch the next time, organizing
your gear this way can help you get under way
faster.
If ramps have docks, where you can wait for friends
or complete your boating preparations, use them
instead of waiting on the launch ramp. You can also
beach your boat on smooth shorelines at the launch
site either to wait for friends to board or to wait
your turn to retrieve your boat. Make a written
checklist for launching and retrieving. You increase
your efficiency by getting your gear ready for use
and by storing items quickly. A routine governed by
a checklist increases your efficiency and lets you
spend the least amount of time at the ramp.
Applying these ideas before you launch can give you
and everyone else at the ramp more time on the
water. Crowded boat ramp sites don't always have to
mean long waits and frayed nerves. It's up to us.